Madrid, Madrid to Segovia
The Stop Press turned out to be a bit premature… Some conditions
don’t know when to stop (Karilyn’s throat), and others like to reprise their lowlights
(Michael).
Our plan was to “rest” upon our arrival in Madrid – as this
would be the first occasion on which we would be stopped in the same location
for more than one night. But first a word about Camping Osuna – our stop in
Madrid. It was one of only two campsites in the city, and the other one
required a 2 hour(ish) bus ride to get into the city. At Osuna, all that is needed
is a 10 minute walk to the nearest Metro station, Canillojas- followed by 30
minutes underground to the centre of the old City.
Here, we are standing on soft ground (forest litter covered)
between two large, I believe to be are Stone Pine trees… occasionally there is
a bang on the roof, as a pine nut heads toward earth.
On Tuesday, we awoke to a beautiful blue sky – but cool temperatures (around 6C) and a light breeze. We decided a “short day” was in order… after it warmed up. Accordingly, we left the campsite around 3PM and headed to the Metro. We alighted at The Opera station, and headed for Palacio Real – which as our Guide Book notes… was built to impress – over 17 years starting in 1734. It continued as a residence for the Royal Family until the abdication of Alfonso XIII in 1931. It reminded us of Versailles.
The view the Palacio has towards the Sierra Guadarama (to the NW) is quite impressive too.
It was evident that the parks around the Palace were places for people to just sit, relax and take in the sun:
The Cathedral de la Almudena dominates the other side of the
square (from the Palacio). It is not an old building (we are thinking European
time here!), as construction began in 1883 – with completion 100 years later –
which explains the interior decoration.
(Do double click on that image!)
While we Protestants have a “problem” with the prominence given
to the crucifix found in Catholic Churches. The example of Christ on the Cross here
was quite moving – there was a sense of reality to the pain and suffering that He
endured for Us, which seemed more “real” than stylised.
The visit was accompanied by the profound voice of the Organ – from rumbling bass pipes to shrill flute like sounds – perhaps the organist was just practising… but it too added to our pleasure at this stop.
We were beginning to “droop”… so back to the Metro – but a different one, so we could see a little more of the old city. Serendipitously, we decided on La Latina – which (we read afterwards) is considered to be the heart of casitizo Madrid (a term used to describe the culture of the working classes). The streets and squares were filled with children playing, either on their own, or with their parents and Café’s filled with people enjoying the warm evening light.
It was around 6PM when we arrived back at Canillojas, and feeling somewhat “spent” decided to eat dinner at one of the three options available at the Metro Stop. Yes – unlikely to be a “great” restaurant(!) – but we were tired… and one of them would do. And it did, sort of. As expected it was a Tapas Restaurant/Bar – and we allowed the waitress to guide us… including Potatas Bravas (which we also experienced in Barcelona – but it was better there). In our opinion the dish is just the Spanish equivalent of Chips… cut in a different shape! And that was the end of our first day in Madrid. Another 8700 steps…
Wednesday 18 Feb dawned cloudy and a cold wind was present. Karilyn continues to have a very sore throat (perhaps it is Covid as it has gone on for much longer than mine) – so we were not planning anything ambitious for the day. Just a trip into the city to visit the Prado Museum and whatever else we saw along the way. Our plan was to take the Green and Red Metro lines to the “Bank of Spain” station and walk from there. We emerged from the station, to find a Demonstration in progress (outside the Bank of Spain), where the leaders were all dressed in red boiler suits, and face masks – imitating the characters i(outside the Bank of Spain) n that very successful Netflix Series of a few years ago called “Money Heist”. The purpose of the Demo – some issue around where Social Security contributions had ended up…
Unlike in the Netflix series – the Police all looked quite relaxed and competent – even if they did have their Riot Helmets and long sticks at the ready.
As in so many (all?) Capital Cities in Europe, one can’t help but sense the impact of “glorious victories” of the past that need to be commemorated in statues, sculptures, and buildings. Perhaps a product of having so many conflicts / wars over the last 500 or more years.
We moved on to the Prado, along the way enjoying the music of the various buskers. From classical Spanish Guitar to Vivaldi’s Four Seasons. I like the “I’m not really here” look on the face of one of the cello players – while the Viola player was sitting slouched in a deck chair – but the music they produced was beautiful!
We easily avoided any “long lines” on entry to the museum…
as there was both a special price (50% off) and a special entry lane (straight
through) for those over 65. Winston – you have still more to learn about how to
improve the lives of Goldcard holders!
So, while I like to take photos of some of the Art that we see
along the way – you are saved from having to view “what we saw” at the Prado –
as no photography is allowed – sadly. The
Museum itself is a bit of a rabbit warren (to my thinking).. with a well laid
out floor plan in the guide, with instructive things like “room numbers” and the
painter’s works that you can see in those rooms… However, someone missed the
memo to add the “Room Numbers” to that actual rooms! Of course, there were some indications of
numbers… but the level of granularity was not what I would have liked.
So you will have to take it on trust that we saw vast
numbers of Reubens, Murillo’s ,Velaquez’s, Titian’s, Goya’s, Raphael’s etc… and
quite by accident (as we began skipping rooms after a while…) came across what
is regarded as the earliest known studio copy of Leonardo Da Vinci’s Mona
Lisa – which is why it is called the “Prado Mona Lisa”… so as not to be
mistaken with “real” the one in the Louvre.
Apparently, many copies of the Mona Lisa have been made – but this one
is thought to have been done by a student of Leonardo Da Vinci – so it is said
to be the copy with the most historical value.
Of course expert offer differing views on this matter! And while we were
there – what should we observe, but another copy of the painting being made by
an artist!
It was time for a “walk in the park” enroute to our chosen
departure Metro Station (Retiro) – as at this point we had both run out of
puff, again…
There was a nice “water feature” in the park.. but the park itself (Parque De El Retiro) was not looking at its best this late winter’s day.
There was one more bonus for us on our way back to BF. We again needed to change Metro Lines at Ventas… but as there was construction work ongoing at the interchange, we were shuffled up above ground so that we could re-enter the station at a different point. The plus – we emerged in front of Madrid’s Bull Ring.
The sculpture in front of the Ring hinted at the “noble” nature of the sport – and the consequences for the Matador of not getting it “right”. No mention was made of the Bull’s rights!
And that was our somewhat abbreviated visit to Madrid… but
another 12,500 steps of training. Tomorrow, we move on to Segovia.
Above - old codger on train...
Thursday 20 Feb has duly arrived and after emptying and
filling we departed Camping Osuna – noting just one ongoing problem – the Grey
Water tank continues to be self-emptying (not a good look!) – the stop cock is
not “stopping” the water escaping! We have
sent McRent Barcelona a message, asking for advice… but typically (based on pre
arrival experience) – there has been no response… indeed they haven’t even read
the message!
The other thing that was empty – was the larder… We needed to find a supermarket to re-supply. Google Maps provided us with guidance to the nearest one – just 1.4 km from the campsite… easy. Well, not so, as it turned out – I misinterpreted “Take the Slip Road” to mean the rightmost of two possibilities – the wrong choice… so after some considerable frustration and many kilometres later… including a visit to Milan Airport… back beside Camping Osuna… and an opportunity to choose the correct “slip road” on our second try. Success… but no… the Carrefour 24h Supermarket turned out to be an “Express” version at a Petrol station… So, lets try again… A big Carrefour was only about a 10 minute drive away. That should do. The only issue was – once there – there was no parking available for anything that would not fit into an underground garage. But in the process of trying to find that elusive park… we (I) managed to drive across a pedestrian pavement area, and irritate a bus driver by accidentally cutting in front of him! It was time to give up, and hope for other opportunities on the way to Segovia. It was wonderful to be outside the city on “easy” roads again. And quite soon, an Aldi hove into view, with easy off – easy on credentials. It felt “nice: to be doing something as ordinary as supermarket shopping!
Our route to Segovia was another “scenic route (601)”, via Navacerrada (snow skiing area), and took us over a Pass just less than 1,900m high. There was snow all around us – but the road was clear. It was delightful drive – with some interesting features along the way… including a suspended rock in the centre of a round about (they decorate roundabouts very well in Europe!) – a rain gauge perhaps, as in: if it’s wet, it’s raining?
On arriving in Segovia, we had our first encounter with the
local Police. We were following the
advice of Google, when we made a left turn into the street to our parking site
tonight at Plaza de Toros. The tow truck behind us kept sounding his horn as we
waited for oncoming traffic to clear the intersection… it then followed us to
the parking area – and stopped behind us. A Policeman emerged and said that I had
made an Improper turn at that previous “left turn” (this statement came via
Google Translate). His English was poor… and after some indicating of phones
(google maps on our part)… and some speaking into phones, he decided to do
nothing about our infringement.
Afterwards, I walked to a nearby pharmacy to get some throat
lozenges for Karilyn (still very sore), and some more Panadol – we are using a
lot at the moment… so in passing re-examined the offending intersection – and indeed
– there was a “no left turn” sign there… that we both missed while concentrating
on “Turn Left”… as instructed by our friend Google!
And so, for tonight we rest in Plaza de Toros – but will
have to leave tomorrow afternoon – as the Paza is used for an outdoor market on
Saturdays – and all vehicles are cleared out by 7AM!
There ends another day… of adventures… with just a few moments of challenging “navigation”!
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