Thursday, February 12, 2026

 

Ups and Downs and other Errors

Barcelona: 10-11 Feb 2026 

First, we need to correct an error in the previous post - the first “error”. We don’t look out on Montjuic,  as reported previously - but rather on Tibidabo – but perhaps some of you knew that already?   Indeed, Montjuic is in the opposite direction (toward the coast) – and considerably lower, at 180m. Something we learned when we set out on some more Camino training by walking up to the magnificent Palau Nacional constructed for the 1929 Exhibition, and which now houses the National Art Museum of Catalonia – to which entry was free for old folks!


There was a nice view of the city from up here too.

We spent a few hours here taking in the views from the roof of the building, and the art inside, specifically frescos recovered from 12th Century Catalan churches, as well as alter pieces. An example:


The Museum also contained images (paintings and posters) from the period of the Spanish Civil War (1936-39), when the fascists  aka the Nationalists (Franco), supported by Hitler fought and won a brutal war against a Republican movement.


This painting tells a story of a massacre of civilians in the Badajoz Bull Ring, where thousands of Republican supporters were slaughtered by Nationalist forces



After this salutary experience we moved on to the “Spanish Village”, also on Montjuic – which required further travel up and down numerous steps (all good training!). This “village” reproduces significant architecture from the various regions of Spain and was built in just on 13 months – to tie in with the 1929 exhibition. The architects for the village took a one month long 20,000 km road trip around Spain in 1927 photographing characteristic structures, returned to Barcelona, set about designing the “village” and then building it - in 13 months. That all seems a little impossible by today’s standards


There was even a section on the Camino de Santiago (Santiago de Compostella is second only to Rome for pilgrimages.


It too included an exhibition of Spanish Art with all of its various styles such as: Cubism, Surrealism, Neoclassicism, post-impressionism, realism, installation art etc.,


What do you make of this piece?

Following our time at the Spanish Village, we decided to visit the Maritime Museum on the water front – which Moovit (the App for public transportation), informed us – could be achieved via a short ride on the 150 Bus, followed by a short trip on Metro. Easy.  However, while waiting for the bus at what we believed ensured we travelled in the correct direction, some local folks suggested that we were on the wrong side of the road… we crossed over – and that was the second error of the day. Up and up the mountain we went… to the castle where the 150 bus terminated… and nowhere near the Maritime Museum!  No problem – we can take the funicular down the mountain and walk the rest. Except the funicular is out of service until March. No problem – we can just walk down the hill, as we are now in “training”.  All went well, until Michael decided to trip over some rough pavement – down he went, some skin came off and out came some blood!  But nothing serious that a little time won’t resolve. We walked on,… and on… and finally arrived (at the museum), which  was interesting for two reasons, 1) the collection of boats, ship models and a the replica of the  fighting galley as used by Don Juan as Austria’s flagship at the Battle of Lepanto (1571)), but 2) because it occupies a building of 18,000 square metres, built across the 13th to 16th Centuries to construct warships for the Crown of Aragon.


Also, a model of the only ship in Magellan’s fleet of 5 ships to return to Spain following its circumnavigated the world – the Victoria, with its crew of 18 (the voyage started with 243 men).


After which returned back to our Apartment – having added another 22,000 steps to our Camino Training regime… and with no significant side effects.

On Wednesday (11 Feb) our main focus was on a visit to the Basílica i Temple Expiatori de la Sagrada Família, or simply the Sagrada Familia (i.e. the Holy Family). The building to which  Antoni Gardi committed (full time) the last 11 years of his life to (until run over by a tram in 1926. But before that we went to visit on of Gaudi’s other creations – La Pedrera (properly Casa Milà) which displays his personal style – inspired by organic forms of nature (the attic structure is based on the form of a whale’s ribs and backbone!). The roof structure includes a number of “sentries” – which perform various duties, including ventilating the house.


Back to the Sagrada Familia. We had booked a guided tour for this experience. And it was an experience! For Michael, the main message he took from the description of Gaudi’s intent was his desire for the Church to be “the Bible” – as his driving forces were the Bible, the Liturgy (of the Catholic Church) and Nature. So there is a façade that describes the annunciation and Jesus’ birth (the only façade that Gaudi saw finished before he died… a façade to describe the Passion, completed relatively recently and if a completely different style, and a yet to be built façade to describe the Resurrection and the glory of Heven.  There are also 4 towers for for the Evangelists (Matthew, Mark, Luke and John), 12 towers for the Apostles, and the highest tower of all (at 172.5m), for Jesus. The Jesus tower is almost finished and is capped with a giant cross – which will double as a viewing platform too. Inside the Church is simply visually stunning – especially the effect of light through the stain glass windows – predominantly red on the Passion side, and  Blues and Greens on the Annunciation side.   There is a lot of symbolism too – in the design, with recurring numbers such as 3 (for Father, Son and Holy Spirit) and 33 for Jesus life.

After which we retuned to the Apartment… having added just 11,000 steps to our Camino Training – but still no side effects!




A final comment on our experiences as "Tourists" in a City that is known to not much like tourists... On many occasions on the Metro, those seated (male and female) have offered to give up their seats for us... and everyone we have met have been both helpful and kind.





1 comment:

  1. Mark has just got me all set up so I can comment on your blogs. Loving the architecture and landscapes, sorry to hear about Michael's intimate acquaintance with the ground, and was transported back in time when looking at you church ceiling photo.

    ReplyDelete

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