Roman Engineering… Gothic Architecture and Baroque “Art”

Segovia 

21 Feb 2026

Plaza de Toros (yes the Bull Ring) proved to be an excellent location for a visit to the old city of Segovia. While readying to depart, we got chatting with an English couple (number plates on vans provide guidance) … who provided us with a map and some suggestions for our visit.  It was a nice day (in that the sun was shining, and it was not windy), but it was still cold – not the best for Karilyn’s health – but we both wanted to visit the city… so we set out.

The Aqueduct emerged from the ground just a few hundred metres from Plaza de Toros, and so we just followed along beside it, as were others… And my, does it emerge from the ground!  As Wikipedia notes: “built around the first century AD to channel water from springs in the mountains 17 kilometres to Segovia’s fountains, public baths and private houses. It continued in use until 1973! Its elevated section, with its complete arcade of 167 arches, is one of the best-preserved Roman aqueduct bridges No mortar is involved – just dry wall construction with shaped granite stones. 

In the Plaza Mayor, we found a group of ladies having their photo taken at the bronze statue to the Spanish Poet Antonia Machado, a leading figure of Spanish literature who lived in the city from 1919 to 1932. I asked if I could take a photo of them – to which they agreed, and then of course we needed to discuss why they were in Segovia etc… as they were Basque’s, from northern Spain, and one had been to NZ… and her memories that came to mind were of sheeps (sic) and mountains… and very far away! Here is Karilyn’s photo of these old folks having a chat, while the Poet watched on!

Then it was time to visit the Cathedral – which once held the record for the highest spire in Spain – at 108m (a Gothic Tower, we should add, as this Cathedral was the last in Spain to be built in the Gothic style, with construction beginning in 1525. So we have now seen the first (Cuenca) and the last (Segovia) gothic cathedrals in the country. But perhaps they built too high – because in September 1614 the (mahogany) spire was hit by lightning, caught fire and fell to the ground.  They “immediately” rebuilt it in stone… but architectural fashions had moved on by 1614… and it became a round dome instead… at just 82m high – leading to a loss of bragging rights.

As the printed and audio guides commented – the Cathedral was designed ”for the participation of all God’s holy people in the Eucharist in one prayer before one altar presided by the Bishop and his priests is the primary manifestation of that which is the Church” ( a quote from the Second Vatican Council). But… secular power may well have been present(!) as  it has two organs, facing each other! 

Nearly all of the 22 chapels have “decorations” - altars and paintings dating from the 17^th Century and  are in the “Baroque Style” – which to our eyes is garish, golden and anything but reflective of the Gospel (Good News). CoPillot suggests the Baroque style is: a highly ornate, dramatic, and emotionally intense style of art, architecture, music, and design that flourished in Europe from roughly 1600 to 1750. Agreed! But one particular chapel – that of the “The Conception” did have some brilliant paintings by Ignacio de Ries – including the Tree of Life – which clearly makes some valid statements / observations!

Also, when we visited there was an exhibition of 17^th Century paintings on copper from Antwerp (so much religious art seems to have been produced here – as we noted in 2019 during our visit to Gammelstad’s church – where the altarpiece there was also constructed in Antwerp.) Apparently, copper was favoured for its durability, smooth surface, and ability to enhance colour brilliance – which did seem to be so!

We decided to splash out on a “lunch” at what was the most popular Restaurant on the Mayor’s Plaza… but that may have been because the others were not in the sun.  We decided on the set three-course menu (at”just” €36pp)… as it gave us a chance to sample some of the local cuisine – which includes “suckling pig” – which we remember from Croatia. I had a parmesan-based soup for entrée (nice), Karilyn chose a local dish that seemed to include a curdled  egg – not so nice. Karilyn had the “suckling pig” and I the “beef steak” both with “roast potatoes”. The pig must have been a very very small animal – based on the size of it’s ribs – but was lovely – though the crackling was more like warm leather. The steak was cooked rare… and still tough. The “roast potatoes” bore no relationship to our The desert included thyme flavoured ice cream and apple (Karilyn), while I went for the baked cheesecake… the latter was more successful than the former!  But we were replete… and had had another “interesting culinary experience”… Thus far, we would find it hard to give Spanish Cuisine a rating above “5”… oh… and never a green vegetable in sight! understanding of such!

The next stop was the Alcazar – built on the remains of a Roman Fortress – and which has undergone continuous renos (technically, transformations) since the 11^th Century. It has a storied past…. And today holds the General Military Archive of Spain It also has a very deep moat on the city side (maybe 30m??))

By now, Karilyn was very much past further exploration so decided to take the bus back to the campsite while I took in a “tour of the Cathedral Tower (190 steps)… But as we were planning our next move we heard what sounded like a woodpecker. Wrong, it was in fact being made by storks nesting in the tress beside the Alcazar. We managed to get a few photos of these magnificent birds – with a focus on landing methods – requiring a rapid loss of forward motion before coming to rest at a nest in the top of the tree.

At 3PM, I joined a Spanish tour to the Belfrey in the tower of the Cathedral.  The process was 72 steps to an intermediate chamber where a video provided historical context and the story of the gothic tower failure (and a chance to recover)… then another 70 steps to the Bellringers “house” – bedrooms, kitchen, larder, etc… and an Attic, from which he rang the bells (another chance to recover). Then another 48 steps to the Belfry itself, where 10 of the Church’s 11 bells are located – the oldest – having been cast in 1480, and still in use. The views were impressive too.

It was about this time, that Karilyn messaged to say that the last bus back, had left at 2.10PM… so the only way back was to walk. A tough walk, given the state of her “cold” at the time. When I got back, we packed up ready to move on, as it was not possible to stay overnight again – as the Plaza de Torro was to be the site of the weekly market the following day, and we would need to be gone by 6.30AM. Another 13,000 steps of training with some “hill” work included.

So, reversing our prior plan, we headed back over the mountains to a campsite near El Escorial – which is “quite large”… with room for perhaps 5000 campers… and a €26 per night fee, with a minimum charge of €52. We had planned to stay one night… but as the woman in reception noted, “you have a booking for the one night as requested… but you can stay another night for free”. Ahem...

But that is what we will do… as Karilyn, is still not out of woods – and more rest will help.  It is a lovely warm day here today (I am writing this on 22/02)… the campground is largely empty (and the “services” non-existent – not even a bread service!)…likewise,  the onsite Supermarket, and all the swimming pools etc… are “closed”.  In the morning, we (or at least me) will visit the El Escorial Monastery… then we will decide whether to go on to Avila (as originally planned) or skip it and head directly for Salamanca.

Lastly… about BF. We are learning more… In Segovia we visited a plumbing supplies shop and bought a cap to screw onto the wastewater pipe… so we are no longer “leaking as we go”… and McRent have provided us with the name of a business in Salamanca that can repair the valve (we will try for that on Monday or Tuesday). And about “heating”… As you will have gathered it has been a little cold overnight of late (we are 910m elevation here in El Escorial)… so have needed to heat BF. Sadly, the Truma heating system on our vehicle has no electrical interface… so all heating (water and space) is via gas – which is provisioned by 2 x 15kg gas bottles.  Yesterday, the gas ran out – the first bottle was empty – we will next need to figure out how /where to swap a bottle (gas bottles cannot be “refilled” in Spain). 

And in the small world catalogue… the Dutch folks who arrived at the Motorhome Parking area in Cuenca just as we were leaving – have just arrived here in El Escorial… and are parked a few pitches along from us!