Beautiful Villages and Roads…and Hill Training

Albarracin, Cuenca, Madrid

15-16 Feb 2026

And we awoke to an empty parking area, sun on the Church and no snow on the ground.

Based on a comment for the camping area there where a visitor had remarked that Albarracin was perhaps the most beautiful village in Spain, we were still keen to try to visit.  The challenge was – how to get there – as the “scenic route” that we had attempted the previous evening looked like it was heading for even greater elevation – and there was snow about. The alternative was a long route to the east.  But it was a sunny day, and by 10AM the air had warmed up, and hopefully the road surface too… So we headed back “up the hill” to see if we could make it via the shorter scenic route.

There was snow and ice on the road but little drama – and we passed the highest point 1,705m without incident. The final stretch was down a winding road beside steep sandstone cliffs and a flooding stream (indeed – there was water across much agricultural land).

The entry into Albarracin was stunning – with the first view being that of the ancient (Moorish) walls standing against the skyline. O all we needed was a) a parking place and b) figuring out how to pay for it! The first turned out to be easy… the second swallowed a €1 coin without providing a ticket, or further illumination as to what I had done wrong! So, ask a local – who of course was a visitor from Barcelona.  No problem… not only did he show me how to operate the machine – but insisted on paying for our parking for the day €4. Blessed we are.

The town’s origins lie in the 11th century under Berber control but was retaken by the Christian forces of Peter III of Aragon in 1284 (who had also happened to be king of Sicily from 1282). Fighting took place her during the Spanish Civil War too.

While our step count was low for the day at only 5,300… we did gain 130m in elevation during our “stroll around the village” – including up to the walls. It was quite steep in places… and at the top – the walls were quite narrow – especially in the wind – but to cross the turrets – the walkway was less than 30cm wide and uneven… with a big drop. We turned around!

It was time to move on again… and again, via the scenic route (A2709) across the Montes Universales to Cuenca. More snow and up to 1,845m elevation. The countryside was spectacular, with massive cliffs (a little like those along the Pororari River on the Coast – but probably twice as high – and reddish-orange in colour. According to Google, the Montes Universales are formed from Mesozoic, primarily Jurassic, marine limestones, dolomites, and sandstones. 

As has been the case for much of the travel over the last two days – there has been almost no traffic… and the roads are all in excellent condition – and no chip seal to be felt/heard anywhere!!

Our campsite in Guenca advertised that it was open, and the cost was €0 per night… curious… and it was the only campsite in the region!  So quite late in the day we arrived at Calle Camping Caravanning – and the gate was open, but the reception unmanned.  So again – ask a local… which lead to ask at the Restaurant adjacent, which lead to “the camp is closed till March. That explains the advertised €0 per night concept!

Back on the CamperContact App, we found a parking place almost in the centre of Guenca. We made it to the site – but couldn’t get through the barrier arms. A voice out of Pillar beside the arms kept insisting something in Spanish, that when spoken more loudly still did not assist my understanding… but a passerby said – “he wants you to move more to the left”… so we did, the barrier arms opened and out popped a ticket. The issue the number plate camera could not see that on BF (and they drive on the right in this country – which is where I was placed before the barrier arms!).  So, a place to rest for the night below the cliffs of Cuenca.

We awoke to a somewhat cloudy, dull day – but no rain, and little wind. Cuenca lies in the region of Castilla-La Mancha. It was the Muslims in 714 who first recognised this strategic location and built a fortress here. After many changes of hands between various (Muslim) groups – it was conquered by Alfonso VIII of Castile on 21 September 1177.

Like unto yesterday – our step count was again low, but it did include vertical ascent albeit only 120m. We visited the Cathedral and its Museum. Interestingly while the Cathedral was built from 1182 to 1270. The façade was rebuilt after it crumbled down in 1902 – which is probably why it looks so “unfinished”! That said – it was the first gothic style cathedral to be built in Spain… of course they have been fiddling with it’s design ever since it was first constructed!

It did have a really interesting “last supper”… not a painting – but rather a polychromatic sculpture - at near 1:1 scale!

The museum also had some interesting objects… tapestries (a number focused on Noah, as well as some spectacular paintings and alter pieces). Here are a couple of examples: a facsimile of the Shroud of Turin that was made 1640… and here is a picture of the face (as best we could make out)… it looks quite “knightly” / European to our eyes… and another painting of the Last Supper.

It was time to move on to Madrid – where we will spend three nights.  But first – the dreaded process of paying for our parking at Cuenca! However – it all turned out to be trivial - present ticket to the machine, touch a CC on the terminal.

Our colds are worse, Karilyn’s throat is more “scratchy”, and I’m coughing at almost every other breath!  We need a rest day… So, the road to Madrid was going to be the way-more-travelled (and so, less interesting) – the A40 and E901 Motorways… all at110kph.  Before leavening Guenca – we had booked a site for 3 nights in one of the only two camping grounds near Madrid. Here at Camping Osuna, we are just a 15 minute walk from a Metro station that will take us into the centre of the city, and are able to recharge those devices that need 230Vs and empty out the toilet and add water. It turns out that the grey water tank had been “self draining” since we left McRent … only discovered in Cuenca when I appreciated why there was an area of wet ground beside BF. The stopcock for the greywater tank had not been closed before we departed.

The countryside along the route was much tamed, compared to what we were seeing in Aragon and La Mancha (so many pine trees, and ruins). Here agriculture was evident everywhere across the rolling country. 

On this route traffic returned to more normal expectations, especially as we grew closer to Madrid – Lorries (aka trucks, aka HGVs) were much more evident. As were other road users.   We will take some time here to rest and recover… before heading into the city to visit the Prado etc.

One last comment… European’s have still not gotten the message about not smoking. As in NZ, particularly among women, it would seem!

Stop Press: Tuesday 17 Feb... we are both feeling much better today!