Ainsa, Vielha, Andorra, Carcassonne, Collioure
02 -06
Apr 2026
After
our adventures on the Col du Somport, and a restful night at Camping Pena
Montanesa, we spent the Good Friday morning visiting the old hilltop town of
Ainsa (which is in Aragon), with its 12th century Romanesque Iglesia
Santa Maria, and 11th century castle enclosure, almost as big as the
rest of the village.
The church had a small side chapel that had on the altar, a dove, a globe of the world, a candle with the names of places where there was not peace currently (to pray for – many in Africa), and an olive branch. It was a good place to stop and remember what was wrought on this day through the crucifixion of Jesus – and to recognise the enormous impact that event 2000 years ago has had on the history of the world since. Even if Presidents and others speak His name in vain – God will still be God – and there will be consequences for such blasphemy.
The massifs
of the Sierra Ferrera dominate the landscape here… This is the view from the campground.
We
left Ainsa for Vielha around midday, choosing to follow the “green” scenic
route as specified on our “Philip’s Road Atlas” (multi-scale, no less) of Europe
(2018 edition). Apart from the uplifted like mountain ranges, much of the scenery
could be mistaken for that of NZ (so long as one didn’t look too closely)… the
big differences of course, are the villages scattered along the hillsides and
in the valleys (that we get to drive through at 30kph – as the streets have not
been widened for the sake of modernity – the houses and restaurants and bars are
right at the edge of the road – just as they have been for hundreds of years. Then
there are the big ski towns full of high-rise apartments and hotels but with a
very French look with grey slate(?) rooves and dormer windows. They definitely
do not look like the other Spanish resorts we have seen. We have also seen derelict villages, not sure
what has turned them into ghost towns – but because most of the buildings have
been built with stone, unlike the ghost towns of NZ, here, they remain for all
to see (even if somewhat in a state of failing…).
We
have been surprised (we are clearly ignorant) of the number of sheep here, as
well as goats – but perhaps should not be – because goat and sheep cheeses are
everywhere to be found. We bought a local specialty in Ainsa – but having now
tried it – I think the rest of it is heading for the rubbish tin …
Management
of the herds of sheep is a bit different from that in NZ too. We have seen on a
couple of occasions – a shepherd (with a crook) quietly leading a heard of
sheep through the countryside. In one case, the herd needed to cross a road –
as we approached the shepherd just stopped on the side of the road – with all
the sheep lined up behind him. We passed, he walked out onto the road – and the
sheep followed (and we are talking here about herds of at least 100 sheep).
This
sight speaks to us of the Good Shepherd that we read about in the Bible (His
sheep know His voice), as well as the imagery of the Shepherd caring for His
flock.
In the gorges – where the roadway invariably becomes quite narrow, while retaining the centre line to give it the impression that it is a two-lane road… there is extensive use of wire curtains to catch rocks falling off the cliffs above (and all seemed to have some demonstrated their value). These are like the cantilevered protection provided just south of Kaikoura – but here they go on for km after km – not just a few hundred metres.
We
spent a good part of the day on narrow roads, ascending and descending various
passes (Coll de Fadas (1,470m), and Col de Espina (1,425m)) – before entering
the Tunel de Viehla (opened 1948), 5.23km of roadway that saved us from another
pass… and once inside, it went steeply down hill (for reference, the Otira Rail
Tunnel is 8.56km long). After emerging –
we entered into “Ski Resort Land”… with vast developments of high rise “chalets”…
The snow business is surely a big business for real estate development companies
as well as ski infrastructure operators.
And it
was here that we experienced our most expensive campsite to date - €49 for one night
with electricity, and nearly cold showers – in quite palatial bathrooms… and no
heating (there was snow on the ground outside – we were at 980m altitude!). But it did have good WiFi!
On Saturday, on the way out we drove through Vielha, but did not stop – as we had quite a way to go to get to Andorra (another country to tick the box on).
Some
ski areas seem to treat their skiers to nice warm pods during the ascent – but most
are in open seats – six or so wide.
The road, of course was more “ascend and descend”…, with what must have been hundreds of gear changes.
On the
way up…
There was a bit of snow on the side of the road…
After
that pass, we descended into a valley, then climbed up to the next pass – at 1,721m.
The outside temperature was 20C. Two days earlier, at the same elevation on Col
du Somport – we were in freezing temperatures enduring white out conditions.
Again – for much of the day – our average speed was probably around 40kph – with perhaps 1000’s of (manual) ger changes (think of the old (pre flyover) Otira Gorge road going on for 60, or 100kms!).
We
arrived in Andorra late afternoon and immediately observed why Andorra will get
a lot of “visitors” (8 million or so) each year. On crossing the border, the road
was lined, on both sides with petrol stations. We filled up with diesel at €1.69/litre
– the cheapest we have encountered sine 14 February. In Spain prices now seem
to have settled around at €1.90/litre (for diesel) while in France they were
closer to €2.10/litre – we did not fill in France!
We got one of the last three pitches available in Camping Valira (only €42.20 per night with 3A electricity) – and a very very full (but happy) campsite, it being Easter Weekend and holiday time. The image above was taken the following morning, after the campsite had emptied out somewhat(!)… but as with the campsite, so with the capital of Andorra (Andorra la Vella)– which lies in the background. It is all a bit crowded – where the main occupation looks like housing and commercial development. Andorra la Vella, is the highest capital city in Europe, at an elevation of 1,023 metres – but looking at the housing development on the mountain side above the city centre – much of the city’s population live at much higher elevations!
Despite the modern aspect of the city, Andorra is an interesting place. It is believed to have been created by Charlemagne (the first Holy Roman Emperor – 800AD). From 988 it was ruled by the count of Urgell, after which it was transferred to the Diocese of Urgell. It is currently headed by two co-princes: the Bishop of Urgell in Catalonia, Spain, and the president of France. It is the sixth smallest state in Europe – and its populace are most closely related to Catalans.
The
presence of Roman influence is recorded from the 2nd century BC to
the 5th century AD. After the fall of the Roman Empire, Andorra came
under the influence of the Visigoths, the Kingdom of Toledo, and the Diocese of
Urgell. The Visigoths remained in the valleys for 200 years, during which time
Christianity spread. When the Muslim Empire of Al-Andalus replaced the ruling
Visigoths in most of the Iberian Peninsula, Andorra remained under the
jurisdiction of the Franks (sort of proto-France – with apologies to any French
readers if this is not an adequate two word description!).
With a
history that goes back this far, there have been a lot of interesting twists
and turns since! A recent example…. On 6
July 1934, adventurer and nobleman Boris Skossyreff, with a promise of freedoms
and modernisation of the country and wealth through the establishment of a tax
haven and foreign investments, received the support of the members of the
General Council to proclaim himself the sovereign of Andorra. On 8 July 1934 he
issued a proclamation in Urgell, declaring himself Boris I, King of Andorra,
simultaneously declaring war on the Bishop of Urgell and approved a new constitution
on 10 July (focused on his powers, I assume). He was arrested by the Co-Prince
and Bishop and their authorities on 20 July and ultimately expelled from Spain…
We
went for an evening walk – as the temperature was very pleasant… But there was
not much to see of any “old city”… Modern development seems to have destroyed/replaced(?)
much of the past. Even the Eglésia de
Sant Esteve, which was built in the 11th-12th centuries in a Romanesque style, has
been “restored” a number of times over the centuries, most notably in the 20th
century – e.g. it was originally home to a number of frescoes, but these were
mostly removed in the early 20th century, and in the 1960s, a new nave was
constructed.
It was nice to see the recognition of the “Bialetti” Coffee machine “art installation” near the city centre… (and in nearly every campsite we have been in – these machines are the ones used to make the “morning coffee” for campers (and there was one in our "kitchen set" for BF - but I had brought my own from home)
There were other interesting pieces of art nearby too – but initially, had no understanding of what a bunch of men sitting on the top of long poles may mean. But Google came to our rescue – explaining that is called “Seven Poets” by Jaume Plensa, was installed in 2014, is made of polyester resin, stainless steel and light. As to “meaning”, the figures are inspired by stylists from Constantinople and represent the seven parishes of Andorra. They were designed to create a "conversation in silence". Good to know!
To finish off – before “ascending” another mountain – this time to a pass at 2,407m (7,900 feet) – at the campground, a boy trying to get his dog to tow him along on his skateboard the dog was having none of it!
We headed out of Andorra – after a brief side trip to photograph the Roman Bridge that we had seen on the way in the previous evening… to later discover it was no Roman bridge, having instead been constructed in the 13th Century – so not worth the second look it got (but a nice photo!).
On departure towards Carcassonne we had two choices – through a tunnel or “ascend” the mountain – we chose the latter, as inside a mountain is not very scenic.
Along
the way Andorra’s large array of Ski Resorts and Ski Fields came into view –
the one below is from just after we crossed the Port d’Envalira at 2407m (7,900
feet)!
Pizza shop...
More mountain views (with contrails)...
The petrol station at the top of the pass, must surely have the best view in the world!
And still more mountain views...with skiers...
The evidence of the snow event from a few days ago (our Col du Somport experience) was to be seen in cars parked along the road that were buried in snow up to their windows (or higher).
And the snow was quite high on the side of the road!
Then it was “descend” again, until we started climbing to the Col du Chioula pass (above Ax-les-Thermes) at 1431m. On the ascent we stopped for this photo, which shows three features of interest: a) the road (middle right) that we were on when descending from Port d’Envalira, b) the village in the bottom of the valley, of Ax-les-Thermes, and c) just below our viewpoint, on the “high pastures” (hanging valley) the Village of Ignaux – with all three separated by sections of road filled with switchbacks – before we reached out lunch stop in a balmy 15C, with snow all around us!
The view through the doorway of BF - while enjoying "lunch"
After
an initial descent on D613, we ended up on a curious Google inspired route (D2)
for the rest of the descent – another two-way road that was about 3m wide for
most of the way – except when it was narrower – as it passed through villages.
Some curious behaviours too – in one of these villages, in a narrow section of the road – what should we find, but an open air “barber” in action!
And very narrow, old (just a little wider than BF) bridges…
And so, we came to Carcassonne, Camping de la Cite which was just below the “old” castle…
As regards the history of this location… much like other strategic locations – the first signs of settlement date back to 3,500BC. Carcassonne became strategically identified when the Romans fortified the hilltop around 100 BC. The Visigoths came by as did the Moors, then there were local ructions, but in 1247, the city submitted to the rule of France, and under the 1258 Treaty of Corbeil, Carcassonne became a border fortress between France and the Crown of Aragon. During the Hundred Years' War, Edward the Black Prince failed to take the city in 1355, although his troops destroyed the lower town. In 1659, the Treaty of the Pyrenees transferred the border province of Roussillon to France, and Carcassonne's military significance was reduced, and its fortifications abandoned. The city became mainly an economic centre of the woollen textile industry.
Carcassonne
was demilitarised under Napoleon Bonaparte, and the fortified cité of
Carcassonne fell into such disrepair that the French government decided that it
should be demolished. A decree to that effect that was made in 1849 causing an
uproar. The mayor of Carcassonne, and the writer Prosper Mérimée, the first
inspector of ancient monuments, led a campaign to preserve the fortress as a
historical monument. Later in the year the architect Eugène Viollet-le-Duc was commissioned to renovate the place. The work
began in 1853, with the west and southwest walls, followed by the towers of the
porte Narbonnaise and the principal entrance to the cité. The fortifications
were consolidated here and there, but the chief attention was paid to restoring
the roofing of the towers and the ramparts. Of course(?) - the restoration was
strongly criticized during Viollet-le-Duc's lifetime. Fresh from work in the
north of France, he made the error of using slate (when there was no slate to
be quarried around) instead of terracotta tiles. The slate roofs were claimed
to be more typical of northern France, as was the addition of the pointed tips
to the roofs. And so, this is what we see today!
We
visited during the evening – and were slightly surprised to discover how much
of a “tourist” destination it is, once past the main gate – with souvenir
shops, restaurants, and gelato shops etc., night clubs and at least one hotel.
But there is no denying the impregnable strength that it exudes, with its concentric design of two outer walls, a moat and drawbridge, and 52 towers and barbicans to prevent attack by siege engines. One of these towers housed the Catholic Inquisition in the 13th century and is still known as "The Inquisition Tower".
It was Easter Sunday, and for the last 30+ years we have shared Easter with friends at Lake Taupo, with Church at Taupo Baptist in the morning and an evening “feast” at our “favourite” fast food “restaurant” (Burger King – which is what we could afford 30* years ago) – so although a world apart, and a 12h time difference, we felt the need to at least honour the meal part of this tradition, as we were not able to meet the locational requirements.. and so, that evening, we ate at Burger King in Carcassonne… which we have to admit, was not the most pleasant gastronomic experience!
We
left Carcassonne late morning on Monday (06 April) and, using motorways (toll roads107 Km cost €12) we made
a run (maximum speed allowed 130kph…, and 6 lanes most of the way) for the Mediterranean
coast at Collioure, with the “claim” in 2025 that it is the 4th most sought-after small
town in France.
We are
having two nights here – to allow for a rest day, the first since our stay
before entering Cordoba on the 1st of March – all part of our
training to “keep going every day”… even if not walking every day. On Thursday, in two days’ time, we need to be
in Manresa so that we can return BF to McRent on Friday morning – so our time,
on this part of our journey, is drawing to an end… and we start the next part
of this “adventure”. By then we will have travelled over 6000km. Interestingly,
here in France, Spain and Portugal – in almost all cases, drivers (and passengers)
of motor homes wave to each other as they pass – just as we do in NZ. Likewise, when you let cars past, perhaps 25%
signal their appreciation.
Perhaps
there will be one more (not brief) entry to the blog before we set off on our
walk. After that there will be only a few words and perhaps a picture or two –
as I will be using the Blogger App on the phone – with images downloaded from
the camera to the phone… We will see how well that goes… later.
What that looks like currently....
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