Another City, Another Roman Ruin, Another Castle…

Seville, Merida and Monsaraz 

11-13 Mar 2026

Spanish pronunciations, ah umm… We butcher them… But we have learned that, “ll” has a “yah” sound… So, Seville, is pronounced Se vee-yah.  We arrived at Camping Vilsom early afternoon – another “good” campsite south of Seville in the town of Dos Hermanas – just a 30 minute bus ride to one of the “jewels” of the city, the Plaza Espana built in 1928 for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929 - to showcase Spain's industry and technology exhibit.

Included in the Plaza’s design is a “moat”, with row boats for hire… but none of the hirers seemed to know how to row. But there are two other spectacles in the square (apart from the buildings and the canal – the ceramic decorations, and ceramic panels celebrating key moment ins Spanish History (by province / region.

And, in case you have a feeling that it looks familiar… The Plaza de España has been used as a filming location, including scenes for Lawrence of Arabia (1962). The building was also used as a location in the Star Wars movie series Star Wars: Episode II – Attack of the Clones (2002) — in which it featured in exterior shots of the City of Theed on the Planet Naboo.

We spent some time walking around the old town too – but we have to say that it felt more like a commercial centre than an “old town” of the type that we have experienced in say Salamanca, Toledo and Avila. For example, one shop we walked pass seemed to have hundreds of bulks of materials for sale… which perhaps hints at the reason why you can buy your sewing machine (along with a skilsaw) at some supermarkets here.

As we were enjoying experiencing the city in the evening hours – we decided to try another restaurant dinner (some in the past have not been particularly memorable…). Karilyn had Fish and Chips, Seville Style, and I had what was advertised as beef, chips and fried padron (green) peppers.  There was lot of fish – and it was in long thin pieces, and white… and we wondered what it might be? The waiter obliged with “Gallo de San Pedro” – John Dory!  Curiously it tasted better with that knowledge. My beef was thinly sliced and very tasty… the padron peppers – were (to me, tasteless and sort of green mush (they are fried in olive oil, I believe). The more interesting part of the meal experience was on overhearing a long conversation  (the Spanish seem often to speak quite loudly!) at the table next to us –  we  heard the word New Zealand.  So we commented that that is where we were from… well that led onto a shared conversation with the couple – who had visited NZ and spent a month there… all quite engaging and charming!

On the way back to the camp site – we passed the Cathedral and a light show at the Alcazar…

The next morning we headed back into the old town – so that we could visit the Cathedral – where the only “tour” available on that day was at 3.30PM, and visits to the Alcazar were not available until Saturday… which is not much of a bother as we have already seen lots of Moorish art at the Alhambra in Granada.  But the Cathedral was worth a visit – as it holds the title of being the largest Gothic cathedral in the world and one of the largest cathedrals in the world. It incorporates parts of the city's former main mosque that was built under the Almohads in the 12th century. The building of the current Gothic structure was begun in 1401 and finished in 1506, with additional reconstruction occurring between 1511 and 1519.

We filled in the time seeing some of the other sites of the city. The city walls of Seville were first built on the orders of Julius Caesar. After the Viking attack on the city in 844, they were rebuilt on the orders of Abd ar-Rahman II. They were expanded under the Almoravids in 1126, and in 1221 the Almohads added a moat and a second outer line of walls. However, most of the walls were demolished after 1861 to reduce restrictions on urban development. Perhaps, Auckland needs to take a note of this example of the cost of urbanisation!  But the Torre del Oro, an Almohad defensive tower dating to 1220–1221 remains. The tower was integrated into the city's defensive system and protected the city's harbour, along with another tower across the river (which does not exist). Between the bases of the two towers a chain could be raised to block ships and prevent entry into the port.

An interesting idea… the Port of Seville – on the River Guadalquivir – around 80km from the Atlantic – which later silted up etc and stopped shipping.  

But… on our departure the following day – we passed over a high suspension bridge over the river, and there beside the bridge were stacks of containers, two container cranes, and a ship loaded with Containers (a “small” ship to be sure… but still, loaded with containers!). Yes – Seville is still a Port, the furthest inland port in Europe.

In Barcelona – we saw a scale model of Magellan’s ship the Victoria the only vessel of 5 that left Seville in 1519 on what turned out to be the first circumnavigation of the globe. Along the way, Magellan was killed (in a battle in the Philippines in 1521).  Magellan was in fact Portuguese. However, King Manuel I refused to support Magellan's plan to reach the Moluccas, or Spice Islands, by sailing westwards around the American continent. Magellan then proposed the same plan to King Charles I of Spain, who approved it. In Seville, he married, fathered two children, and organized the expedition.  Here in Seville, they have a full sized replica of the Victoria… which feels tiny – given it had a crew of 45, none of whom were allowed below deck – so they always slept on the deck and were subject to all weather conditions – and no hammocks either – just a mat.

Another time filler – the Metropol Parasol known as Las Setas ('The Mushrooms'), due to the appearance of the structure. It was completed in March 2011, cost €102 million, more than twice as much as originally planned (so cost overruns on ambitious projects are a universal problem!) It is said to be the largest timber-framed structure in the world. 

We continue taking photographs of “people in plazas” – in part because it seems like such a feature of life here.  The impression is that Spaniards of all ages are good at conversation – and enjoy spending time with one another – often over just coffee… but in the evening, it seems to be more alcohol based. And in the latter case, there are often children playing in groups that seem to weave there way around the space. Very few phones in sight… and no sitting watching TV!

Perhaps this is one of the “benefits” of living in apartments without any green spaces of your own – instead you share the common areas, and do so together – which one imagines makes for a more caring, less lonely, integrated society?

And so we arrived at 3.30, time for the start of our tour of the cathedral. Yes, it is very large, and largely empty… but has some interesting features.  

Nice stain glass:

Interesting art – including Murillo’s 5.6 x 3.5m (yes, huge) 1665 paintin of  “The Vision of Saint Anthony”, which includes the following interesting history: in November 1874, it was discovered that thieves had cut out the portion depicting Saint Anthony. Then, in January 1875, a Spanish immigrant attempted to sell the same fragment to a New York City art gallery. The man stated it was a complete original by Murillo, Saint Anthony being one of the artist's favourite subjects. The owner of the gallery, negotiated a price of $250 and contacted the Spanish consulate. Upon securing the sale, it was shipped to Seville where it was returned to the cathedral and added back into the work in 1875. Look carefully above St Anthony’s head – and you see the “join”.

And the largest Gothic Altarpiece in the world – the Retablo Mayor – 20m high and 18m wide. Completed between 1481 and 1564, this masterpiece of gilded wood features over 1,000 intricately carved scenes depicting the life of Christ and the Virgin Mary.

The vaults are impressive too.

Other points of interest – the tomb of Christopher Columbus’s second son (well attested), and the Tomb of Christoper Columbus himself – possible… but… the debate continues – despite Spanish based DNA evidence supporting the claim! 

His “casket” is held up by four figures representing the kingdoms of Castile, León, Aragon, and Navarre, the  latter two behind those of Castile and Leon (Isabel and Ferdinand) – Columbus’s key supporters.  There are subtle messages here too – Ferdinand has his pike piercing a pomegranate (i.e. Granada – indicating the end of Reconquest by taking Granada), and Isabel has an Oar in her hand – recognising her role in funding Columbus’s voyage.

We exited via the Moorish gate to the Cathedral. We found the visit “interesting” – in part because it was guided – although the guide’s (Guadeloupe) English accent was a little difficult to follow at times… she made up for it with her super-expressive personality!!

The last task for the day, and part of the tour of the Cathedral was a walk up to the belfry of the tower of the cathedral. It's called “The Giralda”, and it was originally built in the 12th Century by the Almohads as a minaret to the Great Mosque of Seville, with a Renaissance-style belfry added by the Catholics after the expulsion of the Muslims from the area.

To climb the tower, you walk up 35 ramps that wind around the perimeter of seven vaulted chambers at the tower's core.  More hill training…

And so we came to the end of the day – and all that we needed to do was return to the bus stop at the Plaza de Espana – and take the bus back to the Campsite.  We chose to take a ride in one of the 100 horse drawn carriages that operate in Seville… it was  very pleasant way to spend 35 minutes at the  end the day..

And that was Seville… We have heard that for many people, Seville is their favourite city in Spain. That was not our feeling though… it just seemed a lot like a smaller version of Barcellona with a big empty cathedral…

We left Camping Vilsom and headed for Merida (a long drive) – in what is considered the poorest province in Spain, Extremadura. But it has what are regarded as the best-preserved Roman ruins in Spain. It’s origins date back to the first century BC when Rome established a settlement here called Augusta Emerita – as a “retirement centre” for discharged soldiers! It prospered (so having lots of retirees is good, right?), became one of the largest cities of Hispania, and the capital of Lusitania. Over the years – it suffered a bit – through wars (the Muslims took over 712, then the Christians in 1230 (as part of the Reconquest).  During the Napoleonic Wars (1803-15), many of Mérida’s historic monuments were damaged or destroyed. During the Spanish Civil War, it was captured by Nationalist forces – after which the population suffered severe repression. War’s are not “kind”… 

But, about that long drive – only because we choose to take the “scenic routes”… as opposed to the motorways, where we can cover the kilometres at 120kph. We passed a fascinating town - Jerez de los Caballeros – with its three (competing?) church towers.

And with this town comes an interesting, cultural story – which we repeat here for its many features and curiosities…

Jerez de los Caballeros is the birthplace of the explorers Hernando de Soto. On 10 May 1539, he wrote in his will: "That a chapel be erected within the Church of San Miguel in Jerez de los Cabelleros,  at a cost of 2,000 ducats, with an altarpiece featuring the Virgin Mary, Our Lady of the Conception, that his tomb be covered in a fine black broadcloth topped by a red cross of the Order of the Knights of Santiago, and on special occasions a pall of black velvet with the De Soto coat of arms be placed on the altar; that a chaplain be hired at the salary of 12,000 maravedis to perform five masses every week for the souls of De Soto, his parents and wife; that thirty masses be said for him the day his body was interred, and twenty for our Lady of the Conception, ten for the Holy Ghost, sixty for souls in purgatory and masses for many others as well; that 150000 maravedis be given annually to his wife Isabel for her needs and an equal amount used yearly to marry off three orphan damsels...the poorest that can be found," who would then assist his wife and also serve to burnish the memory of De Soto as a man of charity and substance. However, De Soto ended up dead in the house of an Indian chief at the headwaters of the Arkansas River near present-day McArthur, Arkansas, and died an impoverished defeated man, with "four Indian slaves, three horses and 700 hogs”. Something about counting chickens before they hatch, comes to mind!

The other element that surprised us a little during this trip, was how empty the Extremadura countryside looked, compared to all the other regions of Spain we have visited. This is the view from above the town of Valle de Matamoros (on the N-435 road).

Back to Merida,  regardless of all the impacts of these events (and many more unmentioned), Merida has a bridge over the Guadiana, that is the longest of all existing Roman bridges (62 spans, 755m long).

And an Amphitheatre (which Dire Straits are playing on the 27^th March should any one care.

Which impresses by its location, compared to that in the Pergamum Museum in Berlin  - that we saw in 2019.

Then there is a Colosseum – not quite the size of that in Rome, but impressive none the less… and a place where you may not sit upon the seats that are “original”… only the modern / fake seats (while quietly seated there taking in the view, a woman down on the floor of the Colosseum started speaking to us… we thought she wanted to now how to get up to this level – so told her in our best English… the volume of the Spanish increased… And it is that point that we figured out that “sitting on the Roman seats is not allowed!).

There is a Forum too – with another Temple to Dianna - but that is actually an error - it was a Temple to the Imperial Cult...

And a Hippodrome (Roman Circus) – 400m long and 30m wide… and used to be a barley field, before excavations began. It was likely built  around 20 BC and inaugurated some 30 years later. It was located far outside the city walls, but close to the road that connected the city to Toledo and Córdoba.

After the fall of the Western Roman Empire and the rise of Christianity in Spain, the circus saw more use than the other Roman structures of Mérida, since racing was considered less sinful than spectacles performed in the Theatre and the Amphitheatre! But recall, Ben Hur... from an earlier time!

Oh, and a Viaduct too (well 2 viaducts actually) this is the smaller one!)

And then there is Spain's National Museum of Roman Art here – and free to visit.  It holds the Roman art that has been retrieved from archaeological sites around Merida (and elsewhere?). It’s scale is of Roman proportions too:

Included in the Museum is this stone commemorating the restoring of the Circus (337 – 340AD). Stating: “In this thriving and fortunate century, with the happy favour of the times of our lords the emperors Flavius Claudius Constantinus, pious, happy and greatest of conquerors, Flavius Julius Constantius, and Flavious Julius Constans, victor, and Agustus ever almighty, Tiberius Flavius Leto, the most illustrious man and worthy companion, ordered the circus, ruined by old age, to be rebuilt with new columns, surrounded by water, and thus, continued by Julius Saturninus the most worthy governor of the province of Lusitania, its appearance wisely reconstructed to bestow on the Colony of Emerita the greatest conceivable happiness.”  So you can see, Donald had forebears with similarly grand thoughts about themselves… and flattery! See below...

Recall – by the time of Constantinus – the official religion of the Roman Empire was Christianity… and the comment above about how racing was perceived relative to theatre.

It had some nice mosaics too:

It also had a very interesting church on the main square – the Co-cathedral of Saint Mary Major of Mérida. Construction began in 1230, on a chapel dedicated to Virgin Mary on the ruins of the Visigothic cathedral (the Visigoths (i.e.  Christians), were here before the Moors invaded).  In 1479, Don Alonso de Cárdenas, Master of the Order of Santiago, ordered the extension of the chapel with the intention to make it the main church of the city. In 1620, a bull of Pope Paul V creates the title of titular bishop of Mérida.  We visited late on the evening of Thursday 12/03.  There were quite a lot of people in the church, and we counted at least 3 priests present… taking confession, or talking intently with parishioners. It seemed like a caring place.... It would seem that it operates like this 24 hours per day.

And just to finish off – a rare (for us) expression of “self”, i.e. selfie, but in a well, by reflection and shadow…

We left Merida mid-afternoon – heading for Evora, via Monsaraz – a small detour that almost doubled the distance to be travelled – but we had heard good things about the hilltop Castle de Monsaraz in the eponymously named town. The Castle is 13^th Century, rebuilt in the 14^th Century on a site previously occupied by Roman, Visigothic and Muslim fortifications… It served as a crucial defence point during the Reconquest. But one other point of interest first… on approaching Monsaraz, we experienced the sense of being surrounded by water – which curiously seemed very welcoming – after the dry and largely lake-less landscape of Spain. It’s the Alqueva Reservoir (Lago Alqueva), known as the largest artificial lake in Western Europe, completed in 2002. Situated on the Guadiana River, this massive reservoir offers 1,200 kilometres of shoreline.

But it's the castle that dominates the landscape

After this detour – it was just a case of finding our campsite in Evora – “Orbitur Evora” – though it took quite a while to do the last 4 km… as it seemed to be “rush hour”, and there were significant roadworks at play – all of which equals long queues at traffic lights and roundabouts.

.Oh… and we lost an hour – as Portugal and Spain do not share the same time zone.